SP Snow White-Part 2: Sewing Construction

The dreaded act of sewing. Okay… it isn’t that dreadful, but some would think it is. I have done it enough that it’s not nearly as intimidating as it was when I was in High School. However, this cosplay was definitely the most challenging for the sewing aspects. It was great practice and now I know more then I did before I started it.

Let’s start breaking down the steps as to how I made the Corset, Skirt, and Jacket.

Corset:

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Corsets: a girls best friend or their worst enemy. Sometimes both! I’ve struggled a lot with even wanting to work on a corset at all, but I knew at some point I would need it. Better now and learn then later and screw up a chance of making something AWESOME! First I needed the pattern.

This is Simplicity 2172. The corset in this pattern had an upside-down v-shaped bottom. It was great for that style, but not for Snow. So my first step was to take the pattern from Simplicity, retrace it onto pattern paper and make the adjustments accordingly by adding a point instead. Although it’s time consuming, doing this is great and it makes it possible for you to customize patterns to work for you!

Because I have made videos of the corset and skirt I will just give you a few tips on each. One the corset, be sure to iron your fabric prior to cutting out fabric, and always… ALWAYS use the triangles that are on the patterns. They are very helpful in matching up seams. Also, with boning, use wire cutters. Do not be me and use scissors! Here is my link to the you tube video of the Corset Construction.

A-Line Skirt

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For the skirt I used McCalls M6911. I did not do the overlay or the design on the skirt… just the skirt itself. This skirt has a train and needs to be hemmed to fit you. I kept my train long and only hemmed the front.

Tips: Be sure to pin your pieces together with you sew. With long fabric pieces like skirt and dresses they can slip and slide a lot, especially if it is a sateen material. I used a flat matte Satin.

Here is the link to the YouTube Video for A-Line Skirt Construction.

Jacket:

I did not, unfortunately, get pictures or video of the construction. The pattern is again Simplicity 2172. There is a lining and I always suggest using a silky or satin fabric for the lining and not the cheap apparel lining. 20170513_213909The cap part of the sleeve I added the Red tear drop things from cut out felt. I sewed those on before I sewed the caps to the sleeves themselves. Again, be sure to follow all instructions in the pattern.

The collar was the hardest part. I cried and argued with my husband about how to draw out the pattern, what to make the collar with, and how to make it stand up. He was a gem and drew out a crescent/u shape pattern out for me. You will have to adjust  and measure for how big you want the collar. What I used was thick stabilizer. It’s the same type of stuff I made the hat out of, which you will learn in the next post about the accessories. It’s stiff but flexible enough to still be manipulated and shaped. I covered it with a Gold pleather (faux leather/plastic leather) and sewed around the edges. It stands up nicely and I love how tall it turned out to be!

I was so please to finally put on the whole thing, minus all accessories. It felt good and I wanted to wear it around the house all day! It is a rewarding feeling when you make something from the grown up and put your own spin on it!  Now get out there and make some magic!

Be sure to check back either tomorrow or Thursday for SP Snow White-Part 3: Accessories! 🙂  If you have any questions, be sure to comment and I will do my best to answer! Thanks for sticking with me!

SP Snow White – Part 1: Design

Never, in all my years of sewing, would I have ever dreamed about doing anything Steampunk related. Why? Well the culture for steampunk is quite unique. You get one thing wrong you may as well say bye bye to your cosplay career. Okay, so it isn’t all that harsh, but it is very specific to certain things and I really wanted to get it right. However, thinking that way made me stress out a lot and at times I didn’t even to work on it. I would stare at my designs and think ‘What am I getting myself into!’. My dear husband who is my supporter, my engineer, and the one who thinks I can do anything, told me I should just go for it and not worry about what others may think. So that’s what I did.

Before any good cosplay there comes a design. Whether it be from an already known character or one that is made up entirely by the cosplayer themselves. We call these originals, which is what Steampunk Snow White is. She is an original. She has her own story line, she has a unique to herself costume, and best of all… it’s the only one that looks like this in existence.

I started out by going through different pattern designs for steampunk. Simplicity Patterns has some of the best so I picked a few of them.

The first two patterns didn’t really fit with what I was going for, but I kept them for future uses (I have plans for more Disney style steampunk).  The other two I looked at more and tried to decide which one would best fit my character. This included drawing out and recoloring to come up with what I wanted.

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The first design was a basic recoloring of the third pattern. This was simple and easy to do and the color scheme was quite nice… but the more I looked at it, the more I felt something was missing. Now, I started this design process in October of last year. It didn’t stare at it every day or spend every waking moment trying to figure it all out. No. I took my time, cause I knew that Rose City Comic Con was another year away.

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 My next step was trying to figure out what was missing. I then decided I would go with out the short jacket, create a cape with collar, add short puffy sleeves, and give it a bit more of a steam punk flair. Note.. this drawing was not as good as my first cause I was rough sketching it while doing something else. 🙂  I showed this to my husband and he liked it… but thought it just wasn’t quite there yet. I agreed. 16708473_1431515353538940_7812896027988799963_nSO I thought… why don’t I mix a couple patterns. I liked the skirt from the first design so I wanted to stick with that.. but I did want something more cape like.

I was FINALLY getting closer!  I loved the jacket in the fourth pattern cause it was longer, like a cape, but still had steampunk flair… and it covered my arms! That was a huge plus. The corset is from the fourth pattern as well but the bottom would have to be changed to a point rather than the upside down V the pattern was.  I almost called this my final design but something was still off. I wasn’t sure if it was the coloring or the design on the skirt or the corset that was wrong, it just wasn’t perfect yet. By this time it was around May and I needed to start sewing and getting to making it as I only had a few more months left before RCCC 2017. So back to the drawing board I went. 16711868_1431515370205605_8912810837188683293_nMy husband was a huge help as he gave me ideas to help me think of other ways I could do this. One thing I did know is that the ruffle front, below the corset, would probably be the one fabric item I would want to throw out.. so that’s when I came up with this!

Although this design says “final” on it… it really wasn’t. However, it was a heck of a lot closer then all the rest. That’s when I started sewing and getting the big part of the costume done. Now i still wasn’t finished. There was a lot of steampunk details that I needed to add. The hat was one of the first things I created… but trying to do the veil was a pain in my butt. I decided not to do the veil which made it possible for me to add other little details to the hat. 20170608_085829Once I was finished sewing the corset, skirt, jacket, and collar piece I needed to work more on the detail. By this time it was around June… my kids would be visiting for the summer and we were about to go on vacation for a week in Kansas. I wanted to get the majority of all the detail work done before they arrived.

This was only a few details but it was finally coming to fruition. I had a bigger and better idea of what I was going to do, to really make this character come to life. The details were as follows:

Necklace with anatomic heart design
Leather belt with Pulley attachment to lift up skirt
Spyglass
Potion bottles
Chains
Nautical compass on Leather Wrist band
Leather wrist brace with clock on it
Gun
Leather holster for gun
Map

The more and more I added, the more excited I was getting about the finished product. I did not get it done before the kids arrived, like I wanted to, but I did finish it while they were here. There were some details that got changed, for example; Leather belt with Pulley Attachment to lift up skirt. We tried very hard to create a pulley system and nothing was working, so I opted for a leather strap that is on the inside of the skirt that comes out and up to the belt. You will see pictures of that later.

No matter what project you are working on Design is always an important step. Your finished product my not look at all like your first idea, but you have to start somewhere!

Don’t forget to follow the blog to stay updated with the next post SP Snow White-Part 2: Sewing Construction. Also be sure to like my Facebook page Angell Cosplay and follow on Twitter and Instagram for more updates!